PLEASE READ CAREFULLY THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION REGARDING DECK CLEANING, REPAIRS/REHAB, SANDING, STAINING AND ANY OTHER ITEM QUOTED RELATING TO DECKS
DECK CLEANING: There are 2 types of deck cleaning. The first is a BASIC deck wash. This is intended to only remove loose soil, debris and minor stains. Any other discoloration, gray tones, old stain or deep stains will not likely be removed during this process. The more common deck cleaning is a DECK RESTORATION which is deep cleaning. This process is much slower and will remove some old stain if loose, a lot of graying and deeper stains. However, there is no guarantee that any old stain, if bonded well, will be removed. Pine pitch, if present, will likely remain. Strippers available at an additional cost.
SANDING: When “light sanding” or “sand as needed” is indicated on the quote, we will be sanding rough spots, minor stains not removed during cleaning, burring, and small splinters. This type of sanding will not remove all old stain. There are other sanding methods and strippers that can be employed for that purpose. Full belt-sanding of deck boards can remove 90% or more of old stain and can restore the board(s) to almost new condition in some cases. Please discuss these options with us before deciding on a course of action for your deck project.
REPAIRS/REPLACEMENT: All quotes include limited resetting of screws/nails. If there are significant fastener issues including a lot of new nails/screws to be installed that cost will be added into the quote. All wood replaced will be stained if it is dry enough. Often pressure treated wood needs to “cure” before staining. This would be your responsibility at the appropriate time. If materials are needed, we will only give an estimate which can vary by +/- 20%. The actual final cost is what is added to the invoice.
STAINING: Deck stains and sealers are generally not warrantied for more than 1 year due to the extreme weather conditions in the northeast region. We recommend no more than every 2 years to re-stain. Although some stains will perform longer with better results, the condition of the wood, the extent of prep work, weather, and amount and type of use all affect coating performance and longevity. Also, a new coating/stain is only as good as what it is bonded to. So if you have old stain that is being covered over you may find that the old stain may chip, crack, peel or delaminate in some way resulting in the new stain also being removed. This of course is not the fault of the product. This can happen sometimes within only months of application. The proper response to this is every year sand/scrape any loose or worn stain areas and touch-up with new stain/sealer. The ultimate “look” of a deck after staining depends largely on 2 things: 1.) the type of finish chosen, and 2.) the condition of the wood prior to staining (weathered, leftover old stain, cracks, mill glaze, grain differences, natural tone variances, etc..). There are generally 4 types of finish to choose from when picking a deck stain: 1.) Toners 2.) semi-transparent 3.) semi-solid 4.) solid. Only solid stains will give maximum uniformity, although underlying wood conditions discussed above can still result in some tone differences. All toners and semi stains will likely not have uniformity, although semi-solid will give you the most uniformity with still maintaining a more ‘natural’ look. Test samples recommended as colors are not always true to paper swatch.
COVERAGE: Deck stains are a one (1) coat process. When they dry they will repel a second coat as they would repel water. To add a second coat all wood would have to be rough sanded before re-application